Aigüestortes: Catalonia’s National Park of Lakes
Granite peaks, hundreds of mountain lakes and a hut-to-hut circuit with the best name in the Pyrenees: Carros de Foc.
The Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici is Catalonia’s only national park – and one of the most beautiful in the Pyrenees. Granite peaks, mountain pine forests and hundreds of lakes, called estanys here, sit close together. The name gives away its trademark: aigües tortes, “twisting waters” – streams that wind in loops through flat high valleys.
Two entrances
The park has two sides, usually visited separately:
- East – Espot: this is the way to Estany de Sant Maurici, overlooked by the twin spikes of Els Encantats – the park’s postcard view.
- West – Vall de Boí: from here you reach the Aigüestortes plain with its meandering streams. The valley is also home to the Romanesque churches of the Vall de Boí, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Private cars aren’t allowed into the park. 4×4 taxis run from Espot and Boí up to the lakes; otherwise you walk.
Day hikes
- Around Estany de Sant Maurici: easy, with views of the Encantats.
- Up to Estany de Ratera and the viewpoint above the Sant Maurici lake – a classic with a manageable climb.
- The Aigüestortes plain on the west side: flat, ideal for families and for morning photos when mist lies over the water.
Carros de Foc
With more time, you can circle the park on the Carros de Foc – a hut-to-hut route linking nine mountain huts. Most people walk it over several days, hut to hut, sleeping above 2,000 metres. The stages cross passes, pass lakes and lead through boulder fields. The huts are in demand in summer, so book early.
For Palmera it’s a candidate for a series of its own – one stage per post.
When to go
- June to October is the best time. High up, snow often lingers into June.
- In midsummer, thunderstorms often build in the afternoon – start early and stay off exposed ridges at midday.
- In autumn the larches and beeches turn and it gets quieter.
Getting there from Barcelona
By car it’s a good three and a half to four hours to Espot. Bus and taxi work too but need planning.
And at night?
The valleys are among the darkest places in Catalonia. If you sleep at a hut, step outside once more before bed – more in Dark places around Barcelona.